Print durability testing
Welcome to 3 Minute Methods, where we teach you a fundamental method in textiles testing, in just 3 minutes
What is print durability?
Printed textiles face unique durability challenges in everyday use. Unlike dyed fabrics, where colour is absorbed into the fibre, most textile prints, specifically pigment prints, sit on the surface of the material. This placement makes them vulnerable to external stresses, particularly during laundering where washing, rinsing and drying place significant physical and chemical agitation on the printed area.
To be able to validate the quality of a pigment printed textile product, we test the item for it’s print durability to washing, using an accelerated wash tester, such as the Roaches Durawash.
What does the test consist of?
This test is measuring the effects that laundering has on pigment printed textiles and garments, replicating home washing conditions in accordance to product care labels. Samples are laundered as part of a controlled wash load, using standardised detergent and (hard) tap water, and temperature set at 10oc higher than stated on the products care instructions.
A crucial element of this test is that the specimens are not washed in isolation, nor are they all ‘bundled together’ in the drum, as often seen in a domestic setting. This highly variable area of a wash test is controlled by the addition of fabric makeweights. These makeweights introduce a standardised agitator which replicates a similar action to that of a domestic washing load, a ‘test material’ which offers repeatability across all wash tests. This agitation is a major contributing factor to what often reveals weak print adhesion.
The application of heat and tumble drying introduce additional agitation to the process. The heat and movement during drying can further stress printed areas and expose issues which may not be visible when items are line dried.
What is the test process?
The test is performed in a few simple steps. Firstly, the printed item is washed in an accelerated wash tester, such as Durawash. Then, a suitable reference detergent is added, the items are washed, spun dried, before being tumble dried and eventually assessed in a light cabinet with standard D65 lighting.
Depending on the size and type of print or label, the test specimen preparation varies.
Smaller prints in early rounds of testing are often sewn to the makeweights, and in final round testing, full garments are tested, however with every specimen being tested, there must be an untested print sample used for assessment. Exact specimen preparation should be followed as per the standard and method that you are using, which can differ, so it is important to study the standard beforehand to be sure.
The testing process varies only minimally between standards, but the fundamental elements such as the washer, the detergent, the heat, the spinning, and the drying, all remain the foundation to performing a print durability test.
There are only a small number of commonly used standards that include print durability, including:
- M&S C15 Print Durability
- NEXT TM8 Appearance for Garments and Products
- Arcadia Group CA 10a Print Durability for Textiles
For more information on testing standards, get in touch with the Roaches team who can give further advice.
Assessing the print performance
The assessment process is done predominantly by the naked eye, and focuses on aspects such as colour change, wrinkling, cracking, and delamination, as well as overall physical appearance of the specimen, such as creasing and seam degeneration etc. For the print specifically, we are looking for areas that show signs of wear, right up to any delamination of the pigment.
Where changes are observed, additional checks are to be carried out to confirm whether the effect is due to a true sign of wear to the print, or whether the visual change is due to the OBA (optical brightening agent), if used, which can be picked up during washing, potentially altering the appearance of the print. This distinction matters, and the use of a flouresence supressor is needed here to ensure the correct assessment is made.
A durable pigment print should show minimal to no visible change when directly compared to the unwashed reference. Edges should remain sharp, showing no signs of delamination, and the design and coverage remaining in tact. Minor changes may be acceptable, depending on the end use of the product, but this is often to be decided by the retailer or brand that is distributing the product.
Why is this test important?
It is crucial to follow these steps as per the standard you are using, regardless of the care label instructions, as they are designed to offer the harshest domestic laundering conditions, should care label instructions be overlooked by the consumer.
Durablity testing allows potential quality issues to be identified early in the manufacturing process, helping brands and retailers avoid costly bottlenecks, complaints, and eventual reputational damage. This type of testing also helps to solidify confidence in the quality of the product overall, from the fabric to the construction of the item.
Quick takeaway
We are seeing this type of testing becoming ever more popular between brands & retailers, and testing houses, and we expect it to continue rising in popularity.
For more information on Durawash, visit the product page and download the brochure, or visit our news page and explore the history of accelerated laundering testing.
