Box pilling vs Random tumble pilling
Welcome to 3 Minute Methods, where we aim to teach you a fundamental method in textiles testing, in that’s right, just 3 minutes.
What are they?
Pilling is one of the most visible signs of wear for a garment or textile product. When it comes to testing fabrics for their propensity to pilling, we need to understand that the behaviour of pilling varies largely between fibre types, yarns, and fabric constructions. Selecting the correct pilling test method is essential to be able to give the most accurate, realistic indication as to the durability of the product.
There are three widely used lab testing methods (we covered the Martindale Pilling method 12945-2 in a previous 3 Minute Methods article), but the two we are focusing on for this article are:
- ISO 12945-1: Pilling box method
- ISO 12945-3: Random tumble pilling
Both of these methods provide an accelleration of surface wear, but they do so in different ways.
How do the tests work?
ISO 12945-1: Pilling box method
Known as ICI box pilling, the stages involved in this test are better understood step-by-step:
- 4 x 140mm square samples of fabric are folded in half and sewn along one edge, then turned inside-out into ‘tubes’
- Specimens are mounted onto polyeurethane pilling tubes and taped at both ends
- Prepared specimens are placed into a cork lined box
- Box rotates with specimens inside for a set number of revolutions, at a set speed
- Once completed, the specimens are removed, and assessed in a light cabinet against photgraphic standards
The test itself is relatively gentle in terms of tumbling environment, when compared with it’s counterparts within the 12945 standard, and the cork lining of the box provides a low-aggression abrasion against the fabric of the specimens.
ISO 12945-3: Random tumble pilling method
The Random tumble method has fewer steps, with less specimen preparation beforehand. Much like the parts 1 & 2, part 3 also requires 4 specimens, but these are cut in squares of 105mm, and the 4 edges glued to prevent fraying. When the glue is set (min of 2hrs), and the appropriate chamber liner applied, the test can commence.
The test requires either a polychloroprene or cork liner as the abrasive surface in the test chamber, with the addition of spinning impellers in the middle of each chamber, which agitate the specimen.
This test is considered to provide a higher-energy, more ‘wear-like’ action to the specimens, and can be assessed for not only pilling and fuzzing, but also matting on certain fabrics, as well.
What are the key differences?
There are key differences between these two methods of pilling, and though they are both designed to achieve very similar results, it is important to understand what is different, and why. This table below lists very plainly, what these differences are.
| Test method | Test name |
| M&S C15 | Print Durability |
| M&S P5 | Durability Wash for Garments and Components |
| M&S P6 | Durability Wash for Pleat Retention |
| M&S P7 | Durability of Waddings and Quilted Waddings to Washing |
| M&S P69 | Cockling |
| NEXT TM 8 | Appearance of Garments and Products |
| CEN TR 16792:2014 (Annex C) | Safety of Children’s Clothing |
The principle of agitating textile specimens to measure their propensity to pilling, is very similar between these two tests, but the main differentiating factor, aside from the specimens themselves, is the shape of the chamber and the action that occurs inside.
Which test should you choose?
To be able to decide between any 3 of the methods in the 12945 standard, but in particular part 1 & 3, it should be based on what type of fabric or garment is being tested.
Typically, the part 1 box pilling method is chosen for woven fabrics, products in the categories of shirting, suiting, non-stretch materials, and fabrics that can be prone to seam distortion. These fabrics benefit from the structure of the sewing and application to the polyurethane tubes, to give a more uniform spread of pilling across the surface.
The part 3 of this standard is aimed predominantly at knits such as jersey and also heavier gauge knitwear, as well as fleeces, pile fabrics and napped fabrics as well. Take a clothing brand for instance, the random tumble pilling method can more closely emulate how a jumper or other knitted garment behaves during use.
It is important to note here however, that both methods are universally accepted, and there is no ‘preferred’ test between the part 1 & part 3. Choice comes down to merely which would be more appropriate, based on the test fabric specification.
Quick takeaway
These two parts of the 12945 pilling standard are by far the most commonly performed tests, moreso even than the traditional 12945-2 Martindale pilling test. We are seeing a large increase in this type of testing, so having a basic understanding of fibres and fabrics helps to be able to build a testing schedule, and decide which of these tests are most relevant to follow.
For more information on ICI box pilling, and Random tumble pilling, visit their respective product pages and download the brochure.
