3 Minute Methods: Colour Fastness Testing – ISO 105 E Series

3 Minute Methods textile testing methods made easy header image

ISO 105 E Series Wet Colour Fastness Testing

Welcome to 3 Minute Methods, where we teach you a fundamental method in textiles testing, in just 3 minutes

Introduction

Wet colour fastness tests on textile materials are viewed as a standard requirement for almost all textile garments and products, due to the frequency of their exposure to a range of wet conditions during use. A beach towel for instance is exposed regularly to seawater, a sportswear garment to perspiration, and swimwear to chlorinated pool water.

How ‘fast’ or ‘secure’ the colour is in these textile products is what we are gauging, and it is the 105 E Series that we are focusing on in this 3 Minute Methods.

Perspirometer for ISO 105 E01 E04 testing
Perspirometer and Memmert incubator oven

What does the test consist of?

All four methods are testing with the aim of assessment, which includes:
• Colour change of the specimen
• Staining onto adjacent fabrics

Whilst we are testing to assess very much the same end points, the processes differ slightly between the tests, with the main outlier being the E03 method for testing chlorinated water.

All of these tests need a specimen to test, a Multifibre or other adjacent fabric, a solution to test in, a Perspirometer, an incubation/agitation period, and Grey Scales and D65 lighting for assessment.

ISO 105-E01

Colour Fastness to Water (Deionised water)

ISO 105-E02

Colour Fastness to Seawater (Saline/ Saltwater)

ISO 105-E03

Colour Fastness to Pool Water (Chlorinated water)

ISO 105-E04

Colour Fastness to Perspiration (Simulated sweat solution)

SDC Multifibre cloth for ISO 105 colour fastness testing

How are the E01, E02, and E03 tests performed?

The process of performing these three tests is best explained in a series of steps:

Step 1. Prepare the specimens

The specimens for each of the three tests is a rectangle of 40mm wide x 100mm in height, with a strip of Multifibre adjacent fabric prepared in the same dimensions, and sewn along the shorter edge. The E03 is typically tested on it’s own.

Step 2. Make/ prepare the solution

For E01, this is simply deionised water. For E02, this is an aqueous solution with a ratio of 30g/l of sodium chloride (salt) to dionised water. The E04 perspiration solution is split into two liquors, one acid, and the other alkaline. These acid and alkaline solutions must be made fresh in the lab that is performing the testing, as this test is sensetive to the exact pH of each liquor.

Step 3. Soak the specimens

The specimens must each be in their own soaking bath, and ‘thoroughly wetted’ in the required solution. E01 and E02 require no extended soaking time as per the standard, but the E04 requires half an hour of soaking in the perspiration. NOTE: air bubbles must be removed straight away, using a small glass plate, tapping out the bubbles to ensure the specimen is totally wetted through.

Step 4. Drain and apply pressure

When the soaking is complete, remove the specimens and remove excess water, and load into the perspirometer between two glass or acrylic plates. When the Perspirometer is loaded the top weight must be applied, and the rig is then secured to maintain an even pressure for the next part of the test.

Step 5. Oven/ incubate the specimens

The Perspirometer containing the specimens is now placed in an incubator oven, which is set at a constant 37° to replicate the temperature of the human body, and this is for a total of 4 hours.

Step 6. Remove and dry the specimens

The specimens can now be removed, and must be opened out from the adjacent fabric by the sewn edge, and hung to line dry with the only parts touching here being the line itself and the stitched seam of the specimen.

Step 7. Assess

After the specimens have had time to dry fully (in ambient heat not exceeding 50°) we can move onto assessment. Using a lightbox with standard D65 lighting, and using Grey Scales, we assess for both the staining and shade change of the specimens, in accordance to the standard. 

The difference in testing procedure between these three and the E03 method is that the chlorinated water specimens are to be tested using a stainless steel vessel such as those used for Washtec, where the solution and specimen are enclosed in darkness and set through the rotating wash bath for 1 hour.

When the test has completed, the specimen is hung to dry and assessed for shade change (as no adjacent fabric is present here).

Assessing the staining and shade change

The two-stage assessment is performed under standard daylight conditions, known as D65 lighting, with a pair of Grey Scales, one used for the staining of adjacent fabrics, and one or shade change of the specimen itself.

The staining part of the assessment is assessing for the transfer of dyes to the Multifibre or adjacent fabric, and its respective fibre types. Each of the 6 fibre types on the tested Multifibre must be graded against an untested strip, and in reference to how strong the staining is on the 1-5 scale, with half grades being acceptable.

The shade change assessment is also a 1-5 scale, however it is noted as 1 = severe change, and 5 = no change, and the specimen must lie somewhere on this scale, when compared to an untested strip of the same specimen.

Quick takeaway

The 105 E Series provides a simple and highly effective way of performing wet textile colour fastness testing, performed in almost every lab around the world. This testing makes up a fundamental starting point for testing and assessing the colour quality of textile garments and products, helping manufacturers and retailers deliver products that perform as expected with everyday use.

For more information on the Perspirometer and the available ranges of Test Materials, visit the website

3 Minute Methods: Print Durability Testing with Durawash

3 Minute Methods textile testing methods made easy header image

Print durability testing

Welcome to 3 Minute Methods, where we teach you a fundamental method in textiles testing, in just 3 minutes

What is print durability?

Printed textiles face unique durability challenges in everyday use. Unlike dyed fabrics, where colour is absorbed into the fibre, most textile prints, specifically pigment prints, sit on the surface of the material. This placement makes them vulnerable to external stresses, particularly during laundering where washing, rinsing and drying place significant physical and chemical agitation on the printed area.

To be able to validate the quality of a pigment printed textile product, we test the item for it’s print durability to washing, using an accelerated wash tester, such as the Roaches Durawash.

Roaches green printed sports shirt

What does the test consist of?

This test is measuring the effects that laundering has on pigment printed textiles and garments, replicating home washing conditions in accordance to product care labels. Samples are laundered as part of a controlled wash load, using standardised detergent and (hard) tap water, and temperature set at 10oc higher than stated on the products care instructions.

A crucial element of this test is that the specimens are not washed in isolation, nor are they all ‘bundled together’ in the drum, as often seen in a domestic setting. This highly variable area of a wash test is controlled by the addition of fabric makeweights. These makeweights introduce a standardised agitator which replicates a similar action to that of a domestic washing load, a ‘test material’ which offers repeatability across all wash tests. This agitation is a major contributing factor to what often reveals weak print adhesion.

The application of heat and tumble drying introduce additional agitation to the process. The heat and movement during drying can further stress printed areas and expose issues which may not be visible when items are line dried.

Print durability to wash testing in 4 steps graphic

What is the test process?

The test is performed in a few simple steps. Firstly, the printed item is washed in an accelerated wash tester, such as Durawash. Then, a suitable reference detergent is added, the items are washed, spun dried, before being tumble dried and eventually assessed in a light cabinet with standard D65 lighting.

Depending on the size and type of print or label, the test specimen preparation varies.

Smaller prints in early rounds of testing are often sewn to the makeweights, and in final round testing, full garments are tested, however with every specimen being tested, there must be an untested print sample used for assessment. Exact specimen preparation should be followed as per the standard and method that you are using, which can differ, so it is important to study the standard beforehand to be sure.

The testing process varies only minimally between standards, but the fundamental elements such as the washer, the detergent, the heat, the spinning, and the drying, all remain the foundation to performing a print durability test.

There are only a small number of commonly used standards that include print durability, including:

  • M&S C15 Print Durability
  • NEXT TM8 Appearance for Garments and Products
  • Arcadia Group CA 10a Print Durability for Textiles

For more information on testing standards, get in touch with the Roaches team who can give further advice.

Durawash control panel with time temperature and start button

Assessing the print performance

The assessment process is done predominantly by the naked eye, and focuses on aspects such as colour change, wrinkling, cracking, and delamination, as well as overall physical appearance of the specimen, such as creasing and seam degeneration etc. For the print specifically, we are looking for areas that show signs of wear, right up to any delamination of the pigment.

Where changes are observed, additional checks are to be carried out to confirm whether the effect is due to a true sign of wear to the print, or whether the visual change is due to the OBA (optical brightening agent), if used, which can be picked up during washing, potentially altering the appearance of the print. This distinction matters, and the use of a flouresence supressor is needed here to ensure the correct assessment is made.

A durable pigment print should show minimal to no visible change when directly compared to the unwashed reference. Edges should remain sharp, showing no signs of delamination, and the design and coverage remaining in tact. Minor changes may be acceptable, depending on the end use of the product, but this is often to be decided by the retailer or brand that is distributing the product.

White durability wash testing with Durawash

Why is this test important?

It is crucial to follow these steps as per the standard you are using, regardless of the care label instructions, as they are designed to offer the harshest domestic laundering conditions, should care label instructions be overlooked by the consumer.

Durablity testing allows potential quality issues to be identified early in the manufacturing process, helping brands and retailers avoid costly bottlenecks, complaints, and eventual reputational damage. This type of testing also helps to solidify confidence in the quality of the product overall, from the fabric to the construction of the item.

Quick takeaway

We are seeing this type of testing becoming ever more popular between brands & retailers, and testing houses, and we expect it to continue rising in popularity.

For more information on Durawash, visit the product page and download the brochure, or visit our news page and explore the history of accelerated laundering testing.

Accelerated wash testing: A Durawash case study

White durability wash testing with Durawash

Accelerated wash testing: A Durawash Case Study

This case study covers the history of accelerated wash durability testing, how the Durawash was created to fill a gap in this area of textile testing, and why it is still just as prevalent as ever in the textile industry today.

An introduction

Originally developed to meet the growing need for accelerated laundering tests, the Durawash became the very first project brought forward to reliably simulate garment washing durability in a laboratory environment. Long before accelerated testing became a popular requirement, the foundations of this washer were being laid with major British retailer Marks & Spencer, a direct collaboration that still sets this machine apart today.

Many people ask, ‘what is an accelerated wash test?‘, ‘why do we need to test the wash durability of garments?’ and ‘how does accelerated wash testing compare to domestic laundering?’. 

This internal case study explores where the Durawash came from, what accelerated laundering testing is, and why it matters more than ever, and also how this lab testing machine continues to meet the demands of today’s fashion and textile industry.

Durawash stainless steel impellor
Mixed garments being washed with detergent

Why do we need accelerated wash testing?

Washing can be one of the most damaging processes that a textile or garment will face in its lifetime. Mechanical agitation, heightened temperatures, chemicals, water, and other load items, all combine to affect the product in a variety of ways, the main three being:

• Print and embellishment/ attachment durability
• Surface appearance, including the quality of feel
• Structural integrity of seams, pockets, zips and other components

These three become our points of assessment, they are the main areas where we as the consumer see a breakdown in quality the earliest/ most visible. Garments and textile products are assessed for their appearance after washing, and typically graded between a 5 point descriptive grading scale, from no change, up to distinct or complete change/ degradation for that point of assessment. Definitions vary between standards, so it is important to be specific to the standard being used to perform and assess your test.

Garment wash durability test method in 4 steps

Traditional consumer laundering can take weeks of wear and washing to reveal effects in these areas, so for brands and manufacturers, testing products in real-time this way is simply impractical in terms of timings and cost.

To combat this issue, accelerated wash tests were developed, with the aim of compressing multiple wash cycles into a shorter, more intense wash. An accelerated wash test takes 15 minutes (according to test method M&S P5), and delivers equivalent results to that of 5 full domestic wash cycles in a standard washing machine (based on the Wascator FOM71 CLS). The vigorous and continuous mechanical action produced by the impellor is the main driver of this test being accelerated beyond a standard domestic wash.

By condensing this test, it has allowed testing labs the ability to better predict the performance of a textile product before the point of sale, without ultra-long lead times and consistent high energy consumption.

Original Durawash controls

How it all started

The Hoovermatic Twin Tub washing machine came first, and was chosen initially to test the security of attachments and embellishments, such as sequins, buttons, and bows. This choice was due to its vigorous mechanical action which delivered consistent agitation. The test was performed for only 30 seconds, as this was thought to be long enough in this washer to test the security of these more delicate attachments. Further tests were then developed and this washer became accepted more widely for testing print and garment durability. 

Over time, certain retailers, the first and most notable being Marks & Spencer, began to base internal durability methods around the action of this particular machine. The mechanical conditions proved highly effective in identifying quality issues with laminated and pigment prints, as well the integrity of pleats, waddings, and other types of surface finishes.

There were several small but key drawbacks with this machine in its current capacity, which included the need for:

• Repeatable laboratory controls/ operating features.
• Safety features suitable for laboratory testing environments
• Calibrative components to ensure consistency and compliance.

By the late 1980’s there was a decreasing call for this type of washer in a domestic setting, and by the early 1990’s the Twin Tub was no longer available on the market. During this period, there was a distinct gap available here between having a useful test method and set-up, a system that worked, and there being a reliable, scalable item of laboratory testing equipment.

The development of the Durawash

With the adapted Twin Tub model becoming only a temporary soluiton, the prototype of the Roaches Durawash began. Major characteristics of the original Twin Tub model were retained in this new design, the wash tub dimensions and impellor speed being two of the crucial elements to keep the same.

Roaches brought in the addition of more updated engineering and build materials, creating the whole model from stainless steel so that the machine highlighted longevity in a wet testing laboratory, an environment prone to rusting. Also installed was a fit-for-purpose safety system, and comprehensive process controls, to enable all laboratory technicians the ability to use the machine safely, and repeatably, no matter who was using it.

Through the years the design has been refined, with the outer shell and touch screen control panel updated to improve the useability features of the Durawash, so that it is easier to use, and more appealing in a laboratory setting. The look and feel of this washer today is aligned precisely with the Roaches brand to give it a recognisable identity of it’s own.

Durawash controls on original model
New Durawash render

Solidifying the Durawash into industry standards

One unusual element to the adoption of the Durawash into commercial brands and laboratories was the direct reference by name in accelerated wash testing standards. The first standard that integrated the Durawash into its method by name was Marks & Spencer, who went on to define one of the most widely used print durability to washing tests in the industry.

Historically, standards typically define the mechanism and conditions of how a particular test should be performed, but don’t mention manufacturers or specific models. These named references are rare, and usually reflect industry-wide acceptance and confidence of a particular machine, something that the Durawash brought immediately, as the very first designed-for-lab durability to washing tester.

There are now a host of durability to washing test methods available that use the Durawash, from both retailers and standards institutes such as M&S, British Standards Institute, NEXT and more. This chart below details some of the most frequently performed tests.

Test methodTest name
M&S C15Print Durability
M&S P5Durability Wash for Garments and Components
M&S P6Durability Wash for Pleat Retention
M&S P7Durability of Waddings and Quilted Waddings to Washing
M&S P69Cockling
NEXT TM 8Appearance of Garments and Products
CEN TR 16792:2014 (Annex C)Safety of Children’s Clothing

Accelerated wash testing today - Why it still matters

Far from being obsolete or even uncommon in today’s test labs, accelerated wash durability testing is in fact an even more universally discussed topic. Textile products in the current climate have far more performance criteria to meet, than expected in the past.

Garments and products today involve:

• Fibres manufactured and constructions designed to maintain durability
• More complex prints, surface embellishments, and finishes
• Treatments to provide additional and/or specific performance qualities
• Increased sustainability pressures between manufacturer and consumer

Retailers expect there to be sufficient proof that garments and textile products can survive repeated consumer laundering, without excessive colour loss or transfer, print degradation, or change in appearance and feel. Accelerated wash testing allows this to be demonstrated early, which can reduce costly recalls, customer complaints, and ultimately reputational damage.

In an industry motivated heavily by speed, accountability, and more so than ever sustainability, the original principle of the Durawash, predictable acceleration that still reflects real life use, is arguably even more valuable and topical than when it was first developed over 30 years ago.

 

Explore the Durawash

Explore the Durawash and Durawash Plus

Take a closer look at the standards tested by Durawash, and the test materials used in durability to wash testing.

durawash print durability tester

From Sample to Shelf: How Testing Supports Quality in Fashion & Interiors

In the fashion and interior textiles industries, quality is a necessity. 

From the initial concept of a design to the final product on store shelves, textile testing plays a crucial role in ensuring that fabrics not only look good, but also perform to the highest standards. 

At Roaches International, we understand the value of precision, consistency, and trust in textile testing, and how these principles support the entire journey of a fabric.

The Importance of Testing from the Start

Before a garment or fabric enters the market, it undergoes a series of evaluations that determine its suitability for various applications. 

Designers and manufacturers need to understand how materials will behave under different conditions, whether it’s a fashion fabric being worn daily or upholstery material subjected to frequent use.

Textile testing allows these stakeholders to make informed decisions early in the development process. 

Properties such as colour fastness, abrasion resistance, shrinkage, pilling, and fabric handle are assessed to ensure the material meets desired specifications. 

Early testing helps avoid costly setbacks later in production and ensures that the end product aligns with customer expectations.

Enhancing Product Durability and Safety

Consumers expect clothing and interiors to maintain their look and functionality over time. Without proper testing, fabrics may fade, shrink, tear, or lose their aesthetic appeal after just a few uses or washes. 

In industries like children’s wear or commercial interiors, safety is also a paramount concern. Flame retardancy, chemical resistance, and mechanical strength are just a few aspects that must be rigorously tested.

Roaches International provides state-of-the-art equipment designed to simulate real-world usage and conditions. 

Our systems, such as the Durawash and Washtec, replicate domestic and industrial laundering processes, allowing manufacturers to predict how fabrics will perform over time. This kind of foresight is critical to maintaining brand reputation and customer satisfaction.

Supporting Innovation and Sustainability

Testing doesn’t only protect quality, it also fuels innovation. As the textile industry moves toward more sustainable and functional materials, testing helps validate the performance of new fibres, finishes, and processes. 

Whether it’s a recycled fabric or a textile with water-repellent properties, rigorous testing confirms that these innovations can compete with or outperform conventional alternatives.

Our Sentire system, for instance, brings objectivity to the assessment of fabric handle, a factor traditionally judged subjectively. 

By quantifying the tactile characteristics of a textile, Sentire supports R&D and speeds up decision-making for product developers and designers.

Quality Assurance and Compliance

Once a product moves from the sample stage to full-scale production, quality assurance becomes vital. 

Regular testing during manufacturing ensures consistency across batches and helps detect any deviations early. 

This not only reduces waste and returns but also supports compliance with global standards and regulations.

Roaches equipment is designed with versatility and compliance in mind, meeting international standards such as ISO, AATCC, and BS. 

This enables manufacturers to confidently market their products worldwide, knowing they meet industry requirements.

Building Consumer Confidence

In an age where consumers are more informed and discerning, transparency and reliability are more important than ever. 

Brands that can demonstrate a commitment to quality through validated testing gain a competitive edge. 

Testing is a powerful tool not just for internal assurance, but also for external marketing and brand positioning.

From the first fabric swatch to the finished product displayed in-store, textile testing is a vital partner in the journey. 

At Roaches International, we are proud to support the fashion and interiors industries with the equipment, expertise, and innovation needed to ensure every fabric meets the highest standards of quality and performance.

Discover more about our textile testing solutions at www.roaches.co.uk 

Have questions? Our experts are happy to help:

+44 (0)1924 420083

sales@roaches.co.uk 

How Our Sentire System is Bringing Objectivity to Fabric Handle Testing

When it comes to textiles, how a fabric feels – its handle – can be just as important as how it performs. 

Yet traditionally, assessing handle has relied heavily on subjective human judgment. That’s where Roaches International’s Sentire comes in.

Introducing Objectivity to Fabric Feel

The Sentire system is designed to remove the guesswork from fabric handle evaluation. Using a range of precision sensors, the system quantifies key handle properties such as softness, smoothness, stiffness, and flexibility. 

This provides repeatable, standardised data that helps manufacturers and developers make informed decisions based on measurable results.

Why This Matters

Subjective assessments can vary from person to person or even day to day. With the Sentire, you get consistent data every time, which is vital for:

  • Product development and R&D
  • Quality control across production batches
  • Meeting client expectations with confidence

Whether you’re producing luxury apparel, technical textiles, or upholstery fabrics, Sentire gives you the insights needed to deliver the perfect balance of comfort and performance.

Learn more about the Sentire:

Sentire Fabric Handle Tester

Have questions? Our experts are happy to help:

+44 (0)1924 420083

sales@roaches.co.uk